Splice into the 16ga relay control wire into the wire (1mm thick) that is on pin 3 going into the connector from the wiring harness that plugs into the control module.

12+ should come off the relay and gnd should be a good chassis gnd.

Splice the new thicker wires into the control module plug pin 1 12+ and pin 6 for the gnd.Run a new 12ga/2.5mm supply and return and a 16ga wire for the relay activation signal.Reverse the above to install the new pump.If you felt like you could have done it without the other side being loose you probably can, you will thank me later when you have to connect the new one. Lift the drivers side flange that has the syphon pump to allow the syphon pump supply line to be disconnected.Lift the pump and pull the hose out of the basket for the syphon pump return.The passenger side with the pump unplug the pump connector.Remove flange locking ring on both tanks.Disconnect both fuel lines marking them for installation.Disconnect the factory pump controller.Make sure you have less than a quarter tank of fuel. Items needed: TTRS pump, Fuel Pump control module, tank gasket and a fuel pump relay kit. I also feel that this is a cleaner install then some of the other methods for increasing low pressure fuel volume ie.

That being said this is a very easy mod to do. I do not understand how companies are selling this upgrade without the correct size wiring to carry the current the pump needs if it is to operate correctly and produce the right volume of fuel. I have not noticed it at all no additional crank time. Yes, you will lose and I can tell you now unnecessary pump prime on door open feature. Mine a 2009 TTS had a 15 amp 1.5mm wire service to the pump with no relay. ONLY the TTRS has a 30amp circuit and 2.5mm wiring to the pump. First off I will state this is not necessary if you are not planning on going to Stage 3.

Tts fuel lift pump